A Trip To The Flaming Cliff, Bayanzag, Mongolia

A beautiful sky set the tone for the day and we are roaring to go again. Breakfast was American club sandwich with always gratifying salad, western Mongolian fusion style! After filling the stomach we were on the way to witness the much anticipated site famous for dinosaur paleontology including first nest of dinosaur egg and other fossils discovered by paleontologist Roy Chapman Andrews in 1920s. Bayanzag means rich in saxaul (Haloxylon amodendron) in Mongolia. It’s a kind of hardy plants that survive some of the harshest desert condition. Bayanzag is also better known to the western as “The Flaming Cliffs” due to the orange rocks and red sand surrounding the site giving it a fiery facade.
The ride to the site take few hours and we decided to stop at a small town for a toilet break and do some stretching. After some searching we finally found the public Toilet. It was indeed an unforgettable experience. Should have took some pictures to show, anyway it was a hole dug into the soil as deep as 3 meters deep. Just imagine if you trip and fall… We finish our business as fast as we could and I probably hold my breath throughout. On the way back to the small minimart, we saw few Mongolian kids playing in the middle of the road and decide to be Santa Claus. We brought many soft toys, candies and stationery with us after some read up from a forum. The kids were overjoyed and so were we. Those children simplicity and content to the slightest affairs were valuable lesson to me, perhaps when you have less; everything that comes along is a gift.
When all kids get their little presents, we bid them goodbye and continue our journey. Reaching the site, we were greeted by 3 eagles on the saxaul forest. Honestly the saxaul forest doesn’t quite excite me more than the 3 eagles, in fact I was a bit lost when Alimaa our guide try to explain the saxaul trees to us. I was more deeply lure by the surrounding backdrop, a group of tourist ridding camel on the plain with beautiful diverse shadows from the clouds casting on it. The sight was simply surreal, like in a movie scene. The famous Mongolian archaeological site was up next, but sad to say we only view it from a distant. I am not sure whether we are not allowed to explore the site or that is just the standard tour we get. I did however get a few good shot of the site and we manage to purchase some beautiful souvenir from the one and only souvenir store there. Once we finish our ‘shopping’, we headed back for our late lunch. The journey usually covers long distant and along with it are many beautiful views and sighting city dweller like me never have chance to lay eyes on. Many unexpected surprises, both good and bad were also part and parcel of the trip.
We were stop abruptly by our super enthusiastic guide Alimaa pointing to a mirage in the desert and insist I snap a few shot of it. It was certainly a chance I will never miss, especially with a new SLR camera I bought for the trip. Almost reaching the camp, we were again stop by a little lamb out in the desert. It was barely few days old, probably lost from the herd. Alimaa said it will definitely die if left on its own devices. After leaving reluctantly, we stop again and decided to help the little lamb find its owner as we have no schedule itinerary. We finally came across a mulish herdsman on a horse and happily approach him, but he simply refuse to accept as the lamb does not belongs to him. We finally brought the little lamb back to the camp with us, and guess what; it doesn’t even know how to drink from a bowl. The helpful camp staff than improvise a bottle to milk bottle and let it suckle with some milk in it. It was when the little lamb settles down that we had a rest, a truly eventful day coupled with many ambiguous thoughts.

Gobi Desert, Mongolia.

What is so amazing about Gobi desert? Gobi stands for dry land in Mongolia. It covers part of northern China and the southern part of Mongolia. Many important trade routes once ply through the Gobi desert, renowned as part of the Great Mongol Empire. The largest desert in Asia and fifth largest in the world, Gobi desert is an important source for fossils finding including many dinosaur eggs found. One of the biggest findings by paleontologists was a stunning 67 dinosaur skeletons in a week! If it's already makes you wonder about Gobi, there is more to follow.



We arrived in Dalanzagad airport in the morning from Ulaanbaatar after a 90 minutes flight. While expecting someone to pick us when we arrive, we were left sitting at a corner for almost 25 minutes when all passengers left. It’s a small airport and turning my head right to left 90 degree at one corner I can see the whole airport holding area.
One stern looking young man in his early twenties with a dark sunglass was left standing at the pickup point. My subconscious mind tells me it’s better to wait for him to acknowledge us in case he is a con artist. Next moment, the guy walked out of the airport and I was glad with my sound decision. Shortly, one lady came to us speaking in halting English trying to pronounce my name. Its Alimaa, she is our guide and that stern face guy was the driver. I had over reacted but guess it harmless to exercise that extra caution while in a foreign land. They have been in the airport before we even clear the immigration but they had assume us to be Caucasian, moreover we look like local Mongolian to them.
After stocking up water at the city centre of Dalanzagad, we headed straight for Yolyn Am, Valley of Eagles in Mongolian. The moment our vehicle drive from the paved road on to dirt road, the boundless steppe in front of us soon cast its spell. The wobbly and uncomfortable ride seems to be subjugated by the tranquil sight. Witnessing the thick layer of ice in the gorge of Yolyn Am this hot summer now fills my mind. Arriving and entering the park we are greet by a picturesque rocky mountains with nice a blue sky.

We follow a little rivulet down to the gorge where the winter ice was. It is not difficult to understand as you can instantaneously feel the temperature different in it as the sun was block by the unique rocky mountains formation.
We were told the park is home to many fauna including endangered Argali sheep and snow leopards. We were not so fortunate to have a glimpse of those animals. However there were many pikas all over and few eagles hovering above us. The sensation of having eagles above us and the yellow greenish pasture surrounded by towering mountains; couple with the climate just made it phenomenal! I am missing Gobi now.
How I wish I could pitch a tent and stay in the park the next time I revisit. Well our guide had forgotten to offer us lunch and our stomachs were grumbling. Alimaa is a English teacher in Mongolian; her husband was a politician if I am not mistaken. It was their school vacation, during which many teachers took up assignment as tour guide as they could communicate in simple English. I had mix feelings when I heard that, as tour guiding is a specialize field to me where history, geography and knowledge on the place of interest is important. I was wondering why she is giving me such a veracious account of herself. She could easily say she is a veteran in the industry and I wouldn't know. En route to our camp, my mind become more inquisitive not only in this country but their people as well. The stomach growl again and I was looking forward for our first Gobi meal.

Reasons travel changes your life.

How can travelling change a person? I would like to share some thoughts and experiences I had from various trips. I must say I am not a big time traveller. However since Year 2000, I try to make a long trip of more than 10 days and a few short trips of 4 to 5 days yearly when times permit.
I have since changed from a tourist to a traveller. I am amazed how travelling had changes my values in life. Before I knew it, my priorities are different, I see things from different perspectives, my horizon broadens, my character growing, the list goes on. If anyone wonder what is the different between a tourist and a traveller? In my own context, traveller will eat a run off the mill Chinese hamburger or Western Dim sum and acquiesce it. The tourist will probably keep hoping they have the taste of Western hamburger and Chinese Dim sum. As quoted by G.K. Chesterton”The traveller sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has comes to see." The diverse cultures, the locals way of life, their languages, their authentic cuisine are what I savours when I travel now. Gone are the days where I hunt for factory outlets, chocolates and gifts except for memento sake.
In this modern world, luxury obsession fed by new consumerist and business culture, peer pressures and societal barometers are making many people losing their identities. I am fortunate to be born in the most developed country in our region; every short trip to nearby countries serves as a good admonition for discontent. Many of us measure self worth by the emblem or symbol that stick on our apparels or equipments, I must admit I do feel good when I got my Daytona on my wrist. Since young we are all driven to achieve in our society, the materialistic dogmas embedded are hard to convert. Travel reminds me of where I come from, who I am and who I am not. Travel made me sees the inner values I never recognise and reset my priorities in life. Travel requires courage and gets you out of your comfort zones, especially a self plan trip to third world countries. Imagine going to Saint Helena or Tristan da Cunha, one of the world most remote countries, it sure raise your concern for many affairs.
Every trip inculcate new values in me, the modern Paris and highly sophisticated Tokyo Akihabara electric town open my eyes and show me the infinite and creative brain power of our human mind, allure my temptation for the finest things in life. However, the precarious slums of Johannesburg, the Berbers of Marrakech and the nomads of Gobi-Altai gave me great respite from the relentless pursuit of a better living. Everyone heard of endangered animal, how about endangered human tribe? The Dukha tribe from Northern Mongolia are one that faces threats to existence. I am humbled by all the things I have seen while travelling and it had certainly invoked a greater inner search within me.

Khongoryn Els, Gobi, Mongolia

After a good night rest at the Gobi Mirage Camp, we were ready to set off for the Khongoryn Els, The Singing Sands.

One of best thing about this trip was when I ask Alimaa about timing to wake up, breakfast, lunch, dinner etc. Her reply was "your wish". It’s really one of the highlights of the whole trip. Everything was at our own pace, "your wish", I just love that! Khongoryn Els covers 100km long and 20km wide and reaches a height of 200m. Does the sand really sing? The answer is yes! The sands really do “sing”, the roaring, whistling or some say haunting sound was created by the friction of tons of tiny sand grains movement against one another cause by the wind.
En route to the sand dunes, we bypass a horse herder family whereby young children were helping to draw water from a waterhole to feed the horses. We decided to stop and have a look and I had the opportunities to have a feel of what they were doing.

I learned that those horses have a clan too, when horses from foreign clan tried to get close for a sip, you see those horse kick from horses indigenous to the herders came flying around. I was wondering how they manage to find that waterhole in this vast desert plain. We brought many candy, stationery, doll and some small toys along for this trip and we distributed some to the kids. After bidding them goodbye, we continue our trip to the sand dunes.
Approaching the sand dunes, we had this magnificent post card like setting showcasing in front of us.
The streaky cloud caught my eyes and I quickly stop the driver to allow me to snap a few shots before we continue. Upon reaching, Alimaa instructed the driver to scout for a camel herder so that we can have our camel ride. Prior to that we visited the herder family and suppose to sample their national beverage Airag and camel cheese. Airag is a slightly alcoholic drink, with an acidic sour taste and even more pungent aroma made from a mare's milk. However we somehow miss out sampling the Airag and cheese had the suutei tsai instead. Suutei tsai is another traditional and favourite Mongolian milk tea concocted from a mixture of tea, milk, water and salt. It is Mongolian customary to offer drinks when you visit them, and it is also rude to reject their offer. The camels were ready shortly and its camel riding time!
Beneath its docile appearance, the camels were quite cantankerous initially. Nevertheless, with the authoritative herder we were soon rocking on the camels to the dunes. The smell is one of the most lasting impressions of these grimacing animals. However trekking through the grandeur of the Gobi desert, with shadows from the clouds displaying different shades on the dunes forming another awesome sight, we soon immerse in the charm of it. Reaching the dunes, first things to do was to conquer the top. In fact, the nothingness and tranquillity of Gobi was more than enough to possess me. The herder's daughter lead the way and we charge up the dunes, while I was busy snapping away she was already few hundred metres apart.

At the top of the dunes, golden sand, green pasture and blue sky form artistry landscape which was simply spectacular!

Khongoryn Els was just a feast for my eyes. The pictures will tell a thousand words. For once, I felt like a rural travelling for the first time.

To tell the truth, I had never experience standing in such a vast expanse of land with virtually nothing in my sight except the four of us, and four Bactrian camels. Descending from the sand, I somehow felt heavyhearted even though it was just the start of this trip; I am already thinking of my next visit. Tomorrow we will be exploring Bayanzag also known as the "Flaming Cliff", where it was once the dinosaur’s playground and fossils were discovered in the 1920s.

The Land of The Blue Sky

A picture to start off and substantiate the title. No prize for guessing the right country, its non others than Mongolia. The world least populated country with only 4.3 people per square mile compare to my country of around 18700 people per square mile. I ponder over many moons before biting the bullet to go ahead with the trip to Mongolia, after viewing some wonderful pictures on a photography forum. This turned out to be one of the most self rewarding and fulfilling, but tough trip.

Day 1

Transiting from Beijing to Ulaanbaator, I suddenly felt perplexing as the trip was arrange by myself through the net with the local tour operator and many issues were still pending. Upon clearing the immigration at the Chinggis Khaan International Airport, we were expecting someone holding our name in a card board or whatsoever but no one was there for us when all passengers were slowly cleared. I retained my composure and assured myself that its normal in Mongolia while praying hard that someone turn up. A man in his fifties make a eye contact with us and before I would lift my spirits, I realize that he was a taxi driver through his hand sign.

Almost 10-15 minutes later, a young man in his twenties approached us and it was the tour guy that I liaise with, Phew! OK we were on our way to the Hotel. En route to the hotel , my first impression of Mongolia was it had dusty air, dirty roads, not very efficient people and chaotic but stupendous landscape.We arrive at the hotel and it was a 3 Mongolian star hotel, nothing much to mention in fact a bit disappointed as we book the luxury package. Lunch was at a Mongolian restaurant, I would say that most of the meal was superb especially the salad, perhaps the best I had?? The thought of it made me drool....We visited the Museum witnessing those ancient martyrdom tools use for torturing, the Mongol sabre and their light weighted Composite Bow etc the Mongol warrior once used. We were suppose to have a Mongolian welcome feast which we trade for a good nap after a tiring 12 hours of flight n transit. Dinner was Mongolian barbecue in a pretty upscale restaurant for the local standard. The rest of the night was free and easy for us to prepare for an early flight to Gobi desert.